Letter From Seoul - 23

Sinchon bound for Hapjeong on the Line #2 subway.

A Day in the Life of Seoul.

For the most part, Christmas is a nothing burger in Korea.  And yet ... more and more Koreans seem to embrace the occasion as a strictly festive celebration for being with family and friends.  Perhaps a bit like the long-ago Germanic tribes for the Winter Solace, which helps account for the tale of the Jewish zombie’s birth on December 25.

Last evening – Christmas here in the Orient, there was a primetime TV program featuring Jo Sumi, Korea’s numero uno soprano. I’m not a fan of opera – though in old age, I do have an appreciation for musical forms that never meant anything to me 50-years-ago.

 I’m not sure where this program was filmed, though a likely location is the KBS (Korean Broadcast System) studio, just down the street from the National Assembly. The 62-year-old Jo Sumi still has it going on. And her voice is astounding. The 37-year-old British-born Cynthia Erivo is pretty damn good, too.

 Yet what really got my attention last night was when Jo Sumi and a supporting cast of singers launched into the Lennon-Ono Happy Xmas (War is Over) – in English.

Lately, Sookyung has been hanging out with an 84-year-old woman on the 20th floor of our building.  To minimize my issues with language and Korean names, Sookyung refers to this woman as Mrs. 20th Floor. I mention all this because, like so many older Koreans, Mrs. 20th Floor and her husband have a son living in southern California. The idea that Seoul is a city in California West has a lot of merit.

So, if I had been in the other room, instead of perfecting my couch potato routine last evening, Jo Sumi would have sounded perfectly American, especially with Happy Xmas, which has been part of the radio Christmas playlist since 1971.

I’m an American listening to a Korean soprano perform Italian opera at Christmas time.

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Regardless of our race, ancestors, and passports, there is no denying that we find comfort and inspiration in being among each other. To say we are the Family of Man is trite, yet our ability to share so many similarities despite all our differences is what can make our humanity so life affirming.

What follows is a photo-essay in the style of a Day in the Life of Seoul. And the day is Christmas Eve.

I am an American expat, and I have lived in Seoul for nearly 15-years. This is my home now, and I’m quite happy with my lifestyle.

Allegedly, 20% of South Koreans identify as Christians. The rest frequently have a connection to Buddhism and ancestor worship.

The celebration of Christmas is nearly universal, and transcends both religious dogma and crass commercial profits.

Keeping up-to-date in the Information Age.

Along Namdaemun-ro, in front of the Lotte Department Store in Euljiro.

Two women discuss Pro-President Yoon rally at Gwanghwamun Square scheduled for this Saturday afternoon.

Woman in Euljiro on lunch break.

Escalator at Ewha Womans University subway station for Line #2.

In front of the Lotte Department Store in Euljiro. For Christmas Eve – which has already receded, giving way to Christmas Day here in the Orient, Koreans were out in great numbers yesterday; the sidewalks, the subways and the stores were the scenes of people full of confidence and hope, and an undeniable zest for life. That is the best gift of all.

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